Working towards a future



Watercolor of the Battlefords river valley


In a very small basement suite, Fritz Stehwien and family became temporary residents of the the city of North Battleford.

It was time to learn and to learn to adjust. Not only was there a rather large language barrier, but the food, the customs, the weather and the 'lost' feelings were a bit overwhelming at times. Often in a humorous and very positive light though.

The memories of the 'no variety' grocery stores remained vivid for many years - white bread, yellow cheese and rather large chunks of red meat. The potatoes tasted 'off' and the butter was salty! Incredibly affordable pink ice cream by the gallon was also a new concept, when everything seemed to come in much much smaller and naturally flavoured portions back home. Gallons and pounds and miles per hour. Truly lots to learn. And to paint, of course.






Skyline of North Battleford, SK. in oil





 

Painting the Prairies

Fritz Stehwien painting the prairies

Once settled in at Fritz's sister's small house, the family of 6 started to explore the new home province, both to admire the beauty and to find a more permanent place to call home. Trips to relatively nearby Saskatoon were common and for Fritz, of course, trips to the Battlefords river valley to share his love for the vast landscapes. It was indeed breathtaking! Gently rolling hills with a wide, shallow river flowing through, sand banks emerging here and there. And even though much of the color of the trees and bushes had faded for the season, it was quite understandable that the scenery was still irresistable to a landscape artist. And so the collection of paintings began to increase, even though the 'starving artist' definition was likely more true than ever. A studio and unlimited materials were still a dream away, but Fritz could be found painting and sketching at every turn, regardless. It was a passion and there were so many many motifs!

End of a long trip

43 years ago today, the long trip for Fritz Stehwien and family ended, when the CN train arrived in Saskatoon. Friends whisked 6 weary travellers off in smooth riding, quiet luxury cars, to the final stop in North Battleford, Saskatchewan. It was a rainy, dull day, with all colours gone from the landscape and all anticipation drained from the dream of paradise. The end of the trip, but really just the start of a new journey.

The colours of Canada

Watching the scenery fly by as we travelled over 2000 km across half of Canada was fascinating! The fall colors and seemingly gigantic skies were most amazing - no wonder Fritz fell in love with the country. Most notable to a European family, was the space between towns and cities. If the trip across the ocean was meant to convey the distance to our new home, the vastness of the eastern half of Canada made it very evident.

Not able to afford sleeping compartments, we took regular seats and found it to be quite a challenge to stay positive during all of this long journey. 2 nights and 3 days in the same small seat! The food was also an adjustment, and perhaps having set back our clocks by 90 minutes daily, in order to catch up with local time was beginning to take its toll as well. Fortunately, October 10th was so very close to the completion of this one-way trip.

Landed Immigrants

After one last night on board the SS France, a night without rocking or engine humming, Fritz and family stepped off the boat and literally, became landed immigrants. October 9th, 43 years ago - a sunny day to remember! The same taxi ride to transport us from harbour to train station only required one car this time - due to the immense difference in vehicle sizes between North America and Europe. The cab driver assured us, all would fit in, luggage included, but in the end, did have trouble closing the trunk. When a police officer stopped the taxi, instead of issuing a ticket or suggesting 2 vehicles, he instead assisted the driver in getting the trunk closed better. A very unexpected traffic situation for Europeans?

One way tickets for the train ride from Montreal to Saskatoon were purchased next, and it wasn't long before Fritz reached for his sketchbook and any pen he could find. He couldn't resist the fall beauty about to whoosh past the window for 3 days and 2 nights.

The SS France Atlantic Crossing

As the majestic ocean liner approached the North American continent, it had noticeably slowed its engines on this 4th day, 43 years ago. The trip took on a less eery feel. When focussing hard, one could even see what might be a darker line on the horizon - land ahoy! But it would take until 11pm on the night of October 8, 1968, to complete the journey across the Atlantic and sail down the St. Lawrence river to dock at Quebec, Canada. The welcome for the ship was quite unexpected - what seemed like 100s of tiny boats with lights and water spouts, encircling and welcoming the SS France and its over 1500 passengers. Truly an immigration story from the past!

There is much interesting information on these crossings, the famous people who sailed on the ship, the french chefs on board, and sadly, also the fate of this luxury ship, to be found on the internet today. Information also on the Queen Elizabeth II, the ocean liner that Fritz sailed on the year before. The era of ocean crossings is an intriguing chapter of history, and great memory for the now Canadian Stehwien family. And a great start to what was such a monumental decision for a young German family - to immigrate to Canada, to what many perceive to be paradise! As did our family.

What we left behind

While the ship's engines were humming steadily, and the ship rocked over large ominous waves in this vast ocean, it felt like being on an island of civilization. Another long day of chilly winds with salt in the air and really nothing to see, other than the grey horizon all around. An eery sight, really. At the same time, it left much relaxed time and space for pondering. Pondering not only about what lay ahead, but often also, what was left behind.

10 years of family life in southern Germany, in a picturesque region with small farm villages nestled in valleys between larger cities, where the main industry is Mercedes car manufacturing. Fritz painted a lot and took part in exhibitions, but it was often a struggle to feed a family with 4 children and to really get ahead. Just the same, it was home with friends and schools and wonderful, almost idyllic towns and landscapes to explore.

Out on the open ocean

Fritz Stehwien on the SS France, October 1968

After a short docking at Southampton, UK, the ship sailed out to the open ocean. A unique experience for all!! For an artist however, the landscape motifs were disappearing quickly, as the view was limited to endless grey waters blending into endless grey skies. With only a hypnotizing wake to watch as the ship made its way across the Atlantic. This was perhaps the first trip where Fritz wasn't quick to pick up his sketch book to capture scenery; and with the SS France being a luxury liner, it seems the people weren't necessarily ideal subjects for sketching either.

The amenities were great fun, however, for those members of the family who were not affected by the motion sickness. There were things like movies, dancing, swimming and entertainment offered daily. And absolutely fine dining. It was a French ocean liner, after all.

The mystery of what lay ahead was as unimaginable as the depth and vastness of the ocean. Perhaps Fritz was the only member of the family who had an idea, as it was his second crossing of the Atlantic. The year before, in 1967, he had spent 3 or more months in Saskatchewan, on a study trip and visit to his sister in North Battleford. The family often remembers, that this 1967 trip with its overwhelming landscapes and 'easy living' was the reason for the immigration to Canada.

The one-way ticket





43 years ago today, in October of 1968, Fritz and family were en route to Paris via train. They had boarded the train in Stuttgart, Germany, the night before, and were embarking on a one-way journey to a 'new life'. The destination was Saskatchewan, Canada. The more immediate destination was Le Havre, France, where the then largest passenger ship, the SS France was getting ready to sail across the Atlantic Ocean.



Postcard of the Ocean Liner SS France



From Paris to the harbour was a wild trip, with all the luggage and 6 people crammed into 2 taxis. Once at the harbour though, the size and luxury of the ocean liner became clear and excitement for this journey mounted. The ship would sail at 2 pm and arrive at 11pm in Quebec on Oct 8th.

The reason for this long journey when a plane ticket would be so much quicker? It was meant to give a true feel for the distance to the destination.

Fritz Stehwien on the ship

 

Exploring the decks